We all need Coffee...

Portland was an early start. 8am, rucksack in hand I jumped into the car with Ana and Dux from the train station. After being given an estiamated arrival time of 10am, due to being informed it would take 2 hours to get down, we pulled into the car park at 9:19am, followed shortly by Richard, Chris, Marc and Pareecha. We made our way round to the small cafe in the car park, which to the disappointment of all was closed as a morning dose of caffeine was needed.

After spending time flicking through the guide book, our numbers grew slowly as we all waited to grab a coffee. Chris talked me through the plan for the day, telling me about The Veranda and before long, coffee in hand, we hopped back into the car and drove up onto the cliffs, up small winding inclines and passed seaside homes we parked and walked down the costal paths looking for the crag. After a little bit of a trek, slopes and bum shuffling we made it down to The Veranda. The Veranda is a wave of smaller crags that are developing over Portland. The routes have taken a beating in recent years and even more so recently with the downpours we were having over the whole of the country. The exposure has made for the development of some expansive grassy areas that make for good chilling, socialising, onlooking and eating areas.

We spent the first 20 minutes watching as Marc, Luba, Marie, Simon, Richard, Chris, Melody and Frank set up top ropes. However, as soon as the chance came Pareecha and I jumped at the chanceto climb. We started on a 4 called 'Phils route' moving onto a 4+ called 'Days of Heaven'. I also sent 'Love on the Rocks' a 5 and attempted a pinchy 5+ that ripped my hands to pieces after throwing myself at it goodness knows how many times. Taped up and chalked up I sent the same routes over and over before finishing on what was meant to be a 4+ called 'Cat juggling', but after a read of the guidebook after it was labelled as a 6a and was a very height dependent route. Always finding the short jokes eh...

The feel of rock was so much better. I had better grip, more friction. I love that you just do you and crimp, hold and scramble onto what ever you can find or push on and it's intense. I adored it. It was such an awesome day and I can't wait to do it again.

Return to Calshot

Climbing at Calshot is scary. Its more demanding,  the routes are harder, and sometimes it's a Struggle. And I love it. The routes are longer, but tonight was about taking it a little easy because of the increased frequency of climbs. After warming up with an easy 4 then a 4+, I sent a few 5s and 5+. I then, thanks to smearing and the encouragement of Chris I sent my first 6a at Calshot. Chris is grades above me on both his skill and technique, he pushed me. Climbing with someone who's better really does pay off. I sent a black 5 that i'd had issues with last time and struggle with due to reaching the final holds, but I found that I sent it easier tonight.

There was also a 5 on the far side of the centre wall that I sent. It was the highest I've climbed over here. (Marylands wall may be higher...Probably higher). It was awesome and great for stamina testing. I also got to rest at the top and look out into how big the velodrome is. Huge is the answer. It was a great route to send though. I also did a spot of leading too with Chris (we traded Belay all evening) and sent a couple 4+, a 5 and 5+.  

Queen of The Castle

Today I took Gina to get her Visa paperwork sorted and her passport sent off.  So after the early morning start we headed over on the tube to Manor House. We got there a little early so we headed over for a little pick me up snack in a lovely little Turkish restaurant. The Castle, as par recommendation from Anna, was a good choice for the day in London. The Castle is run by climbers for climbers spread over 4 floors. With 450 roped and lead routes (8m to 13m) and a large range of bouldering surfaces there's a little bit of everything for beginners to experts.

Opening at 12 and after a quick look around the floors and shop. Gina and I found our way to the 1st Floor. I bouldered in the Mezz (Blue Wall), sticking to V1, V0 and VB. It was awesome to be able to boulder more like that as opposed to the traverse walls at St Marys. We also moved over to The Slab (Green Wall) and I bouldered V0 ans V1, and a couple V1-V3, sticking to a comfort zone due to the early start in the morning. There is also the Lust and Envy area, where I traversed V0s and V1s. Next to it is the Catacomb, that is mainly constructed of roof routes, so I gave a few a go. I tried a couple V3s and got half way before slipping off. 

The Castle is a definite return location for bouldering and to try the top rope and maybe even try some lead. A lot of the routes were being reset for top rope and lead that day anyway so even if I had someone to trade belay with I probably would have been restricted to how much I could have done. I also payed the cafe a little visit with all their home grown products, and it turns out their tomato, pesto and mozzarella toasties really hit the spot! The cafe is next to a lead area and a bouldering wall that Gina explored while I ate. We went up to see The Loft area too but there was a class so we didn't hang around. We bouldered a little more before leaving. Must explore the outside bouldering area sometime.

New Routes! New Projects!

Tonight's climb time was 2 hours. SCC's Tuesday meet saw brand new routes! The route grades weren't up on the board yet though so it was a free for all considering I'm no route setter and would have no idea how to tell what grade a route was even if I identified its hardest move.

At first I was worried and apprehensive that I didn't know what I was going to be climbing, but then when I thought about it again, I didn't really mind. It made me less hesitant and I felt less pressured to live up to a grade or expectations that I set on myself. It was out of my safety zone and that was healthy to be put out of it, to not be safe and only try what I though I could or couldn't do. Based on my ability and ease on them I assumed they were around a 5/5+ with a few 4s.

It was a good evening.

Up those Walls like White Spiders...

Today saw SCC head over to White Spider Climbing Centre in Tolworth. Pareecha and I were taken there by Chris and Richard. It was initially a weekend when the experienced climbers were going to head over for some outdoor climbs, but the weather forecast meant that they were driven indoors. White Spider is a large climbing gym with over 300 routes on 103 lines, up to 20 metres on a stalactite roof with grades ranging from 3 to 8b. 

We got there early and climbed for around 5 hours. We did a spot of lead here and there, I mainly belayed her though as she was very wary on how to belay on lead. I trust her a lot but it put me on edge and I struggled to send a 4 without being overly cautious of if she would catch me if I fell. So with that in mind I stuck mainly to top rope on the huge walls and bouldered in one of their many bouldering areas. The grades were a push it seemed and Jo reckoned that they were half a grade higher than Sotons standards. I still had fun and enjoyed the experience of climbing at a different wall. 

Pareecha and I moved around the wall and I sent a few 4, 4+, 5 and a couple easy 5+ top rope. The jump between grades was really big I found. 4+ and 5 seemed ok, but then 5 to 5+ and above were a stretch. It was ok though. I did my thing and had fun, breaking for lunch somewhere in the middle.The cafe was cute, solf coffee, paninis and Clif. It also has a little castle with a crash mat floor kids could boulder and climb up into which is awesome. 

White Spider also have a slackline stretching across the walls on one of their corners, so we all had a walk across and a bounce before having to master an Olympic class dismount (failing). It was a great laugh though. The gym also has over 200 boulder problems scattered across two floors and three areas, not to mention a really awesome cave. As the day drew to a close, Pareecha and I bouldered in the cave with Marc who was sending a route as we entered as fell from the roof with a content sigh. He'd been trying most of the afternoon so no wonder the sigh. He chilled as we scoped out routes, I rainbowed couple then sent a few V0s and a couple V1s on aching palms and tight shoulders. It was an awesome day overall and a great new experience. 

Lead the way...

Thanks to the lovely Richard and Chris this evening consisted of around 3 hours climbing at Calshot. This meant that I spent the evening trading with Frank and Rhiannon on a few 4s, 5s and a couple 5+. Calshots routes are a lot higher than St Marys so they require a little more stamina and attention.

After a while Chris and Richard came over and asked if I wanted to lead climb with them. I obviously jumped at the opportunity and soon enough I was tied in, being spotted and clipping into a 4/5 rainbow route and a 5+ orange route. I don't know what it was, maybe adrenaline, but it felt awesome. I felt so good to complete the routes. So accomplishing. 

Calshot also has an awesome bouldering cave that's quite high. It sort of puts into perspective how small and limiting the traverse routes are at St Marys, but it's still my little home. Simple and Effective. So I wound down on the wall a little before we left for the evening.

Let's go climbing!

I love when Gina comes climbing with me. She's even gotten herself some shoes. Its great! It always feels super great to have someone come with you. Added confidence and company. It's a boost mentally and physically because she pushes me and tells me to try things i'd be apprehensive about. She's a great friend and I'm super glad we've become close again. We've always done things together, but now its becoming a thing we can do together and she enjoys.

I'd had a unfortunate morning and when she suggested we go climbing I was surprised and stoked to go. After getting excited about her wanting to buy herself some shoes, we spent 3.5 hours at the wall, starting easy, getting harder then bringing it down as our hands got sore. I bouldered round the bottom of the wall quite a few times, making my own routes, just making my way round, trying to just get some technique down. Get something that pushes me. I think I did. I belayed Gina up a couple 5s when we came back down from the bouldering room. We switched between upstairs and downstairs a lot. I tried making my own route in the cave a couple times and got higher than I had before. Its small, but its progress in my ability. Its a good feeling. Gina was breaking in her shoes, (which she loves) and bouldered a little too. I gave her beta on a couple routes as she climbed. She's getting so good. I'm so glad she comes with me.

Fridays are Empty days...

So for my birthday I got a free climbing session courtesy of the wall, so I decided it would be great to use before I ran out of time. I spent the session just messing around. Trying routes down stairs. Making my own. It was more of a session (because of it's emptiness) where I could see my progress, my technique and just generally how I move across the wall. It was good practice I guess! I took a few videos and watched them back. It's easier to see where you go wrong when you can physically see it. Its one thing falling but if you don't know why and you try again its a pointless exercise. So my phone filled in for a partner.

Project Yellow: The Struggle

It has become my task to climb at least once or twice a week. So far I'm staying true.

Gina and Charlie come with me more now. It's lovely to have company and someone who can push you near by.  I got myself a harness this month. I'd taken quite a liking to the Petzl Corax.  So I found myself on Ebay for a good price. Now, after talking with Anna about getting my hands on one she had suggested I purchase a Size 1. But I of course didn't listen, blame it on self esteem or lack of knowledge, but the size 2 came and it was too big and wouldn't sit right.  So a week later I dropped into Decathlon, after reselling the 2, got a size 1 and it was fine. Corax has 4 gear loops, as well self locking buckles and adjustable leg loops. The buckles make it heavier than others and the walls DMM ones, but the padded legs make for comfortable hanging when falling off a route.

So the routes are being reset in about a month. I have one month to get this route down, sent and destroyed. I've tried smearing, I've tried reaching, jumping, dyno, crimping, moving slowly and distributing my balance with care and nothing has been successful. I even face-timed Anna when there was no one at the wall to give me beta. This route is frustrating, confidence knocking and tough. But isn't that what I signed up for? It's the foundations of why I climb and recently I'd let it slip away in the push to better myself. My issue with the yellow holds that sit on that lovely blue pentagon are how slippy they are. Even when I crimp and move I pull away from the wall on slip off. I can't quite reach over either. Maybe it's psychological because of my height. Maybe I'm making excuses. I'll keep trying and I'll get there eventually. So the new plan of action is to combine with the pastel blue route I know I can send. Then slowly miss holds from the blue until I get the yellow sent. And if I don't send it? Then it's still fine. I still will get that reward with each hold I drop when I send.

Since joining So'ton Climbing Club, I've signed up for an outdoor climb every month. There is a day meet in Portland/Swanage towards the end of March where I can experience my first proper outdoor climbing. The trips is set to include and teach outdoor beginners sport and trad (weather permitted, and if not we're heading to a rad indoor climbing centre nearby). Then the same is planned for April in Portland. May bank holiday will see Gina and I camping out at the Gower Peninsula for Sport, Trad and maybe some Deep Water Soloing. We get to Belay from the beach! By then I'm hoping to get Gina trained and signed off, but we'll see. I literally can't wait.

When I look back and realise that this has been part of my life now for 5 months but only more consistently in the last 2 and a half. I guess I shouldn't fault progress. I'm doing things I would never have imagined. Gaining confidence I didn't know I could have, and taking opportunities when I can. Maybe one day I'll get routes done I never would have imagined doing. But for now I can be happy in the knowledge that I love what I do. I've said numerous times before the main drive is always the reward that comes when I do something I didn't think I could do. And recently I hit the wall. I got frustrated because I lost sight.Because my focus became progress I wasn't seeing. I'm finding my bearings and I'm making my way back home. It's driving me more.

Note to self: Do what You can do. Be what you want to be. Set expectations high, but not too high and enjoy it. And that's what I'm going to do regardless of grade, those who are better, or what I'm failing at. That reward of completion is going to feel so much better for it.

One Day...

The Unexpected Top Rope

Gina and I decided to take advantage of my new 'Sup' status and came to the wall to top rope and boulder. I taught her how to tie in the first time I top roped with her (when apparently I should have been allowed...staff at the centres fault) so I bouldered when she was doing that for the routes she wanted. About half and hour of us being there Adam came in and bouldered. He gave Gina beta sometimes which was nice. He also encouraged her to try a grey route that was originally graded at a 6A but was marked down to a 5+. She tried and couldn't so I belayed him up while he sent it, showing us how it's done. Then he asked if I wanted to and of course I took up the offer. I climbed my first over hang and it was so easy. I thought I would stuggle but I guess my bouldering is paying off. Turns out the holds were from my grey route upstairs.



We then turned our attention to a 6a, that turned out to be the holds of my first 5 I sent. I tied in after he's done it and did my thing. He was a lot taller and he planned his routes differently, so when I smeared and crimped in different places he was surprised but I got it easy and it felt so good. Being able to top rope is such a great feeling, and to see that I'm progressing feels even better.I traded with Adam after and he attempted a 6B he'd been working on, then we bouldered a little more. Climbing isnt about what grade I'm at. Its about proving myself wrong. I've always doubted myself and to those people who have give me shit because I've taken it on, whatever. It really is something that is good mentally and physically for me. Its not a hobby or a way to keep fit. Its a lifestyle that's helped me change how i see myself, how i think other people see me. It's a slow road to self acceptance, and having climbing is that catalyst that helps the process.

Sup!

So the new routes have been up for a few weeks and my new project is the yellow route. I have a couple that I like. There's a pink/coral route that's pretty cool. It's an intro route but it's great for technique, pace and practicing crimps. I like to miss a hold too each time so I can practice balance and weight distribution when moving across the wall. We also played games where we used the pool noodles and had to climb through. It was good fun. Also great for making sure you stay close to the wall and that movement too.

Gina came with me today and we were chilling, I was giving her beta on the coral route after completing a beige on the opposite side, when Tim came in to fix the holds. Long story short I managed to get signed of (after trying to get in contact with Tim for about a month) as a Supervising Climber, meaning I can now take members of the public, 'non climbers' and friends into the wall. My membership card's got a little classier now. There's a sticker over 'IND' that now says 'SUP'.

Project Grey: Completed

Short Post. Only climbed a couple times since the last post. New aim is to climb once a week, every week. On the 3rd I managed to traverse across the grey further, slipping at the last moment before leaving the roof. The grey has a couple of moments that could be considered cruxes. I used to hang and transition from hold to hold using my arms but after getting beta from Matt heel hooks were easier. I do favour the old way sometimes though.

 Charlie and Gina have been giving the grey a try too, using other holds, trying heel hooks. Its been great. I think Gina favours hanging upside down more though. Butttt Today I managed it. It may have been only just and I'll ache like a bitch. But I did it. There's route setting in a couple days so I've just managed it. If It had been there longer I would have carried on until I found it super easy, but again that comes with increased strength. Super stoked I completed it. Good day to  be a climber?