Calshot also has an awesome bouldering cave that's quite high. It sort of puts into perspective how small and limiting the traverse routes are at St Marys, but it's still my little home. Simple and Effective. So I wound down on the wall a little before we left for the evening.
Thursday, 27 February 2014
Lead the way...
Thanks to the lovely Richard and Chris this evening consisted of around 3 hours climbing at Calshot. This meant that I spent the evening trading with Frank and Rhiannon on a few 4s, 5s and a couple 5+. Calshots routes are a lot higher than St Marys so they require a little more stamina and attention.
After a while Chris and Richard came over and asked if I wanted to lead climb with them. I obviously jumped at the opportunity and soon enough I was tied in, being spotted and clipping into a 4/5 rainbow route and a 5+ orange route. I don't know what it was, maybe adrenaline, but it felt awesome. I felt so good to complete the routes. So accomplishing.
Monday, 24 February 2014
Let's go climbing!
Friday, 21 February 2014
Fridays are Empty days...
So for my birthday I got a free climbing session courtesy of the wall, so I decided it would be great to use before I ran out of time. I spent the session just messing around. Trying routes down stairs. Making my own. It was more of a session (because of it's emptiness) where I could see my progress, my technique and just generally how I move across the wall. It was good practice I guess! I took a few videos and watched them back. It's easier to see where you go wrong when you can physically see it. Its one thing falling but if you don't know why and you try again its a pointless exercise. So my phone filled in for a partner.
Tuesday, 18 February 2014
Project Yellow: The Struggle
It has become my task to climb at least once or twice a week. So far I'm staying true.
Gina and Charlie come with me more now. It's lovely to have company and someone who can push you near by. I got myself a harness this month. I'd taken quite a liking to the Petzl Corax. So I found myself on Ebay for a good price. Now, after talking with Anna about getting my hands on one she had suggested I purchase a Size 1. But I of course didn't listen, blame it on self esteem or lack of knowledge, but the size 2 came and it was too big and wouldn't sit right. So a week later I dropped into Decathlon, after reselling the 2, got a size 1 and it was fine. Corax has 4 gear loops, as well self locking buckles and adjustable leg loops. The buckles make it heavier than others and the walls DMM ones, but the padded legs make for comfortable hanging when falling off a route.
So the routes are being reset in about a month. I have one month to get this route down, sent and destroyed. I've tried smearing, I've tried reaching, jumping, dyno, crimping, moving slowly and distributing my balance with care and nothing has been successful. I even face-timed Anna when there was no one at the wall to give me beta. This route is frustrating, confidence knocking and tough. But isn't that what I signed up for? It's the foundations of why I climb and recently I'd let it slip away in the push to better myself. My issue with the yellow holds that sit on that lovely blue pentagon are how slippy they are. Even when I crimp and move I pull away from the wall on slip off. I can't quite reach over either. Maybe it's psychological because of my height. Maybe I'm making excuses. I'll keep trying and I'll get there eventually. So the new plan of action is to combine with the pastel blue route I know I can send. Then slowly miss holds from the blue until I get the yellow sent. And if I don't send it? Then it's still fine. I still will get that reward with each hold I drop when I send.
Since joining So'ton Climbing Club, I've signed up for an outdoor climb every month. There is a day meet in Portland/Swanage towards the end of March where I can experience my first proper outdoor climbing. The trips is set to include and teach outdoor beginners sport and trad (weather permitted, and if not we're heading to a rad indoor climbing centre nearby). Then the same is planned for April in Portland. May bank holiday will see Gina and I camping out at the Gower Peninsula for Sport, Trad and maybe some Deep Water Soloing. We get to Belay from the beach! By then I'm hoping to get Gina trained and signed off, but we'll see. I literally can't wait.
When I look back and realise that this has been part of my life now for 5 months but only more consistently in the last 2 and a half. I guess I shouldn't fault progress. I'm doing things I would never have imagined. Gaining confidence I didn't know I could have, and taking opportunities when I can. Maybe one day I'll get routes done I never would have imagined doing. But for now I can be happy in the knowledge that I love what I do. I've said numerous times before the main drive is always the reward that comes when I do something I didn't think I could do. And recently I hit the wall. I got frustrated because I lost sight.Because my focus became progress I wasn't seeing. I'm finding my bearings and I'm making my way back home. It's driving me more.
Note to self: Do what You can do. Be what you want to be. Set expectations high, but not too high and enjoy it. And that's what I'm going to do regardless of grade, those who are better, or what I'm failing at. That reward of completion is going to feel so much better for it.
Gina and Charlie come with me more now. It's lovely to have company and someone who can push you near by. I got myself a harness this month. I'd taken quite a liking to the Petzl Corax. So I found myself on Ebay for a good price. Now, after talking with Anna about getting my hands on one she had suggested I purchase a Size 1. But I of course didn't listen, blame it on self esteem or lack of knowledge, but the size 2 came and it was too big and wouldn't sit right. So a week later I dropped into Decathlon, after reselling the 2, got a size 1 and it was fine. Corax has 4 gear loops, as well self locking buckles and adjustable leg loops. The buckles make it heavier than others and the walls DMM ones, but the padded legs make for comfortable hanging when falling off a route.
So the routes are being reset in about a month. I have one month to get this route down, sent and destroyed. I've tried smearing, I've tried reaching, jumping, dyno, crimping, moving slowly and distributing my balance with care and nothing has been successful. I even face-timed Anna when there was no one at the wall to give me beta. This route is frustrating, confidence knocking and tough. But isn't that what I signed up for? It's the foundations of why I climb and recently I'd let it slip away in the push to better myself. My issue with the yellow holds that sit on that lovely blue pentagon are how slippy they are. Even when I crimp and move I pull away from the wall on slip off. I can't quite reach over either. Maybe it's psychological because of my height. Maybe I'm making excuses. I'll keep trying and I'll get there eventually. So the new plan of action is to combine with the pastel blue route I know I can send. Then slowly miss holds from the blue until I get the yellow sent. And if I don't send it? Then it's still fine. I still will get that reward with each hold I drop when I send.
Since joining So'ton Climbing Club, I've signed up for an outdoor climb every month. There is a day meet in Portland/Swanage towards the end of March where I can experience my first proper outdoor climbing. The trips is set to include and teach outdoor beginners sport and trad (weather permitted, and if not we're heading to a rad indoor climbing centre nearby). Then the same is planned for April in Portland. May bank holiday will see Gina and I camping out at the Gower Peninsula for Sport, Trad and maybe some Deep Water Soloing. We get to Belay from the beach! By then I'm hoping to get Gina trained and signed off, but we'll see. I literally can't wait.
When I look back and realise that this has been part of my life now for 5 months but only more consistently in the last 2 and a half. I guess I shouldn't fault progress. I'm doing things I would never have imagined. Gaining confidence I didn't know I could have, and taking opportunities when I can. Maybe one day I'll get routes done I never would have imagined doing. But for now I can be happy in the knowledge that I love what I do. I've said numerous times before the main drive is always the reward that comes when I do something I didn't think I could do. And recently I hit the wall. I got frustrated because I lost sight.Because my focus became progress I wasn't seeing. I'm finding my bearings and I'm making my way back home. It's driving me more.
Note to self: Do what You can do. Be what you want to be. Set expectations high, but not too high and enjoy it. And that's what I'm going to do regardless of grade, those who are better, or what I'm failing at. That reward of completion is going to feel so much better for it.
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