The Unexpected Top Rope

Gina and I decided to take advantage of my new 'Sup' status and came to the wall to top rope and boulder. I taught her how to tie in the first time I top roped with her (when apparently I should have been allowed...staff at the centres fault) so I bouldered when she was doing that for the routes she wanted. About half and hour of us being there Adam came in and bouldered. He gave Gina beta sometimes which was nice. He also encouraged her to try a grey route that was originally graded at a 6A but was marked down to a 5+. She tried and couldn't so I belayed him up while he sent it, showing us how it's done. Then he asked if I wanted to and of course I took up the offer. I climbed my first over hang and it was so easy. I thought I would stuggle but I guess my bouldering is paying off. Turns out the holds were from my grey route upstairs.



We then turned our attention to a 6a, that turned out to be the holds of my first 5 I sent. I tied in after he's done it and did my thing. He was a lot taller and he planned his routes differently, so when I smeared and crimped in different places he was surprised but I got it easy and it felt so good. Being able to top rope is such a great feeling, and to see that I'm progressing feels even better.I traded with Adam after and he attempted a 6B he'd been working on, then we bouldered a little more. Climbing isnt about what grade I'm at. Its about proving myself wrong. I've always doubted myself and to those people who have give me shit because I've taken it on, whatever. It really is something that is good mentally and physically for me. Its not a hobby or a way to keep fit. Its a lifestyle that's helped me change how i see myself, how i think other people see me. It's a slow road to self acceptance, and having climbing is that catalyst that helps the process.

Sup!

So the new routes have been up for a few weeks and my new project is the yellow route. I have a couple that I like. There's a pink/coral route that's pretty cool. It's an intro route but it's great for technique, pace and practicing crimps. I like to miss a hold too each time so I can practice balance and weight distribution when moving across the wall. We also played games where we used the pool noodles and had to climb through. It was good fun. Also great for making sure you stay close to the wall and that movement too.

Gina came with me today and we were chilling, I was giving her beta on the coral route after completing a beige on the opposite side, when Tim came in to fix the holds. Long story short I managed to get signed of (after trying to get in contact with Tim for about a month) as a Supervising Climber, meaning I can now take members of the public, 'non climbers' and friends into the wall. My membership card's got a little classier now. There's a sticker over 'IND' that now says 'SUP'.

Project Grey: Completed

Short Post. Only climbed a couple times since the last post. New aim is to climb once a week, every week. On the 3rd I managed to traverse across the grey further, slipping at the last moment before leaving the roof. The grey has a couple of moments that could be considered cruxes. I used to hang and transition from hold to hold using my arms but after getting beta from Matt heel hooks were easier. I do favour the old way sometimes though.

 Charlie and Gina have been giving the grey a try too, using other holds, trying heel hooks. Its been great. I think Gina favours hanging upside down more though. Butttt Today I managed it. It may have been only just and I'll ache like a bitch. But I did it. There's route setting in a couple days so I've just managed it. If It had been there longer I would have carried on until I found it super easy, but again that comes with increased strength. Super stoked I completed it. Good day to  be a climber?

FF HH...Lets be Creative

Today I took Charlie and Gina bouldering. They seemed to have an awesome time. I yet again was glued to the grey route. When I say it's a project, I mean it. If I could climb more frequently maybe the progression would be faster but for now its all good. I did decide to try a few others though. I could do a couple. Some I couldn't before. Some I could. There was a blue route opposite the grey and I'd looked at trying before. So while Charlie and Gina were trying to hang upside down and make their own routes and tried and completed it. It felt good because it had been difficult the first time I'd tried. Progression. It's all about that progression. I think in a way that's why I love that I don't know what grades the routes I'm sending are. Because I'm not reaching for a level or a grade. I'm reaching for that reward of completion and joy.

After a while we made our way downstairs. You can boulder up to the red line downstairs so I was trying the start of some routes. Mainly 5's and 5+s. I also decided to mix it up a little and use the features on the wall and holds, or both on holds/features. It was fun and testing. I also was getting use to the difference in the gradient of the wall on this side. The back wall mimics natural rock more which is great and the routes tend to be more challenging or more technical. I love it either way and it was a great way to spend a morning with friends. Charlie and Gina were doing some too as well as looking at the different routes top rope has to offer. Need to bring them both to top rope. Better get signed off as Supervising Climber.

Project Grey

I think Gina likes to hang...

There was quite a substantial gap between climbing, mainly funds and being busy with work. But I'd managed to see if Gina wanted to start coming. Which she did. It's great to go on your own, It's peaceful most of the time when I go during the day on my days off. The wall is small compared to most too which means when it gets busy, it's crowded. The bouldering room is small so you may end up waiting around a lot so I tend to go in the day when i can.

Heel Hook it out...then fall...

The session today mainly was composed of me attacking the grey route, falling, attacking it again, falling and getting a little further. As I do it though I can often feel things getting easier. Maybe its increased strength, maybe its improved technique, maybe its both. Whatever the case the reward and enjoyment is still there. With Gina there it was pretty awesome. It pushes you when you have company. Because you want to show them what you can do. Help them do their thing too. Gina was tackling the intro routes and making her own up. It was great fun. We also did a little top rope.

Let's Climb

 Today was the first run of my La Sportivas. So after work I was on the train then walking the familiar 15 minute walk to St Marys Gym. 

I met Pareecha and we climbed. It was deserted. Just the two of us at the wall. I belayed and top roped. We traded for a while. I sent my first 5+ (French Numerical Grades) and we ventured up into the Bouldering room. Everything was bliss in my La Sportivas. It was so much easier to do anything and everything with them. 

I found I could stand on the smallest features, climb with so much more ease. Up into the bouldering room I tried a couple routes. A lot were way above my level so i decided to pick one and make it my project. It would be a grey route that had a traverse along the roof of the cave. I fell. A lot. But It was going to be my challenge. The holds were big with easy grip, they were spaced quite far apart in places, but I liked it.

LA SPORTIVAS

I got my hands on my first pair of Climbing shoes; La Sportiva Cliff, 2008 model.

Now to me these were like Cinderella and her Glass Slipper. Cliffs are quite rigid and lace up all the way down to the toe for extra grip and concentration at the top. They have a rubber rand running along the side of the shoe and around the front, encapsulating the heel. Their shape also means that they mold quite nicely to someone with wider feet like myself.